In Los Angeles, chef Kwang Uh cooks with deep intentionality at Baroo



Jars filled with fermenting fruits and vegetables, slowly transforming and bleeding their yellows and oranges and reds, cover the back wall of Baroo in Los Angeles. The restaurant is otherwise spare. Housed in the center of a shabby strip mall two blocks from Hollywood Forever cemetery, it fits less than twenty diners. Remove the one long, wooden communal table, and the place would take on the asceticism of a meditation hall. Floor tiles are the color of earth and slate. White walls are largely bare. The eye goes immediately to that array of jars and containers, unexpected and remarkable. Read the original story >